Once upon a time...........

This week we entered the land of fairy tales.  We spent the week first in Budapest and then Prague. Two cities that have been ravaged by invaders, wars, dictators, fire and floods and yet, even as they rebuild, the dreamy, decorative and handsome style of their buildings and the warmth of their citizens are palpable.

I found Vienna's buildings solid and at times pompous. On the other hand, I found Budapest's decorative and sometimes down right playful.

 There was a dreamy quality to many buildings, even those on Buda hill, where the castle is located. Fisherman's Bastion was one of my favorite spots.  Easy to see why, I think.  There is a bar where that red light shines.  The light is actually a heater warming up the place as it is an outdoor space and folks in these parts refuse to go in yet!


Budapest is divided by the Danube into Buda and Pest.  Buda was one place where we actually got lost, but once we found the right tram we were rewarded with amazing views from one of the bridges across the Danube.


We did some exploring of caves that are found on Buda Hill and found ourselves in a Labyrinth that was well presented and at times down right scary.

There was smoke and operatic music and wax figures in full regalia in some areas.  There were markers explaining in Hungarian and English the historical and other uses of the caves over the centuries.  Very effectively done.




Our lovely apartment in Budapest was on the Pest side of the city.  We spent 2 dry days and one  rainy day walking around and being impressed by the resiliency of the people who live here.

A walk on Andrassy Street, a boulevard lined with beautiful palaces and leading to City Park, a lot like Fairmount park in Philly - except they have a castle- took us by the Museum of Terror.  We did not have to go inside to understand what this was about.  The outside of the building was lined with photos of the men who lost their lives during the fascist and communist dictatorial regimes and also a memorial to those who were detained, interrogated, tortured or killed in the building. Votive candles lined under each photo.

Also in the are was a slab of the Berlin Wall as well as an Iron Curtain with very moving words about the importance of freedom.


















A very moving testimony to the struggle for freedom.  There are many reminders all over the city about the 1956 Revolution and its cost in terms of lives.  It brought back many personal memories especially the memory of a young Hungarian orphan who was adopted by a neighbor of ours in Havana in 1956.  To learn more about the Hungarian orphans and their plight check out:  http://www.eurozine.com/articles/2013-01-21-nove-en.html

Despite the difficult times, this is a city that enjoys life and food.  We found the Central market, Nagyvasarcsarnok, at the suggestion of our airbnb hostess Zsofi.  A beautiful building inside and out.  We stuffed ourselves with every manner of stuffed vegetable:   stuffed cabbage, peppers, potatoes, and wonderful home made beer and chocolate cake for dessert.  Quite the feast.  The market looks a lot like the Reading Terminal Market but much more organized.  Crafts and prepared foods in the upstairs landing while meats, spices, cheeses, veggies/fruits and bakeries line the fist floor.

OUTSTANDING STUFF!





Our last early evening in Budapest gave us some beautiful sights I must share:

Fisherman's Bastion on Buda hill

View of Pest from Buda Hill.

                                                   






                                                                                                                                                         When we arrived in Prague, we were immediately reminded of fairy tales.  Maybe the fairy tale books from our childhood depicted buildings like these....I'll let you be the judge.

Very colorful and decorative buildings depicting the life of the upper classes mostly.  One building of interest was the black and white house where Franz Kafka once lived.  A very interesting looking building from the outside.

Prague was packed with tourists
 which made it difficult to take pictures that did not include some random folks.  The older parts of Prague are more concentrated than in Budapest and therefore more accessible TO EVERYONE!

Nevertheless, the Charles Bridge still impresses as well as the rest of the Castle Hill which, like in Budapest, is one side of the river Vltava. 

We took a break from the crowds to wonder around the gardens in Petrin, a beautiful spot with amazing rose gardens still blooming!

Jim consulting the map on the funicular on the way to Petrin Hill

We had delicious food everywhere in Prague, from the corner bars to the kiosks on Wenceslas Square where we had some hot wine and Langos.

We also took a tour of the underground in the Old market square and found that most of the city is full of tunnels that were houses and shops in medieval times, storage areas, bunkers and a network of passage ways to protect from bombs and are now used for underground wiring and water and sewage pipes.

Having spent the last few weeks wondering around massive buildings and cities that delight in showing their treasures in castles, palaces, houses of worship - cathedrals, basilicas and synagogues alike- we have become keenly aware that there is much celebrating of the ruling classes and find ourselves hungry for more information about the folks that made it possible for the nobles to lead such lavish lives.

There is a section in Prague Castle called the Golden Lane, where goldsmiths and other castle workers could build their own places.  Their one room spaces are an amazing contrast to the surrounding castle (above). 

We are on our way to Augsburg, Germany and the Romantic Road, just in time to celebrate our 41st wedding anniversary.  It seems like only yesterday!